Initial frame assembly on stringers
The clamps are holding the frames in position in
preparation for installation of the clips that will hold them
in place on the motor stringers.
The individual frames are held on the stringers
with "clips" which may be made of with either wood or
The aluminum brackets seen in the photos are the
motor stringer clips. I used 1.5x1.5x1/8" aluminum angle
stock for the clips. The clips are used to fasten the individual
frames to the motor stringers. The motor stringers are the long
pieces that run the length of the boat on the inside.
The bolts are stainless carriage bolts. The heads
are pounded down into the holes drilled in the angle stock. This
holds them securely and keeps them from turning. The nuts should
be acorn nuts to make them "toe friendly". Use regular
nuts at first, and then cut the bolts off to correct length for
the acorn nuts. The stringer clips should have all edges (especially
the tops) rounded over to prevent injury later.
Pre-coat the frames and stringers with epoxy
prior to assembly.
The door in the background is the exit for the boat.
The boat will need to be tilted to a 45 degree angle to fit through
the door. Both door panels are to be removed from the door frame
to allow the boat to pass.
I held the largest frame up to the door to verify
the fit! Of course, the first question asked by everyone, when
told that I am building a boat in the basement is: "How will
you get it out? " Next is: "Are you sure?" I even
had 2 offers to lend a chain saw to enlarge the opening.
Initial placement of the battens.
The first fitting of the battens is being done at
It is easier to work with 8 foot sections at this
point rather than the full length battens. Note how the second
batten from the keel curves to miss the motor stringer clips.
The first clip from the transom had to be cut down to allow the
batten to pass over it. I then bent the batten to just miss the
next few clips.
This was my first inkling of how every piece of
metal that is used in construction will come back to haunt me
at a later stage. It seems that the clips, staples, bolts and
screws have a habit of lining up in positions where I will eventually
need to cut, plane or chisel. At this point, the clips and the
frames are not glued to the stringers. They are simply bolted
in allowing for removal, modification and reattachment.
Initial fitting of the chines
In this shot the chines are being test fitted on
the frames. The next step is to cut the beveled ends on the chines
where they meet the stem. Much of the fitting of the chines in
the notches is a successive approximation. I started out with
relatively square bottom cuts initially and then progressed with
greater bevels as each fitting showed the errors. After 5-6 passes
the fit was good and the chines were ready for gluing.
I used a saw to cut a series of kerfs in the bottom
of the slots and then chiseled out the remainder. A short stiff
saw with teeth that have no set is best. I used a Stanley "Short
Cut" tool box saw. This saw has aggressive teeth, much like
a Japanese styled saw. No set and very sharp. This does cut on
the push stroke, unlike a Japanese saw. A conventional cross cut
saw is too long, as with it, I am continually hitting other pieces.
The lack of tooth set makes it easier to get neat sides on the