Battery connections are made using commercially available cables. The switch is the master disconnect for all electrical power. The battery is mounted alongside of the driver's side stringer just forward of the rear cockpit and blower hose.  Two small pieces of wood (batten scraps) are mounted to the bottom of the hull to set the battery level and provide a mounting surface for the tie down strap.

A surplus harness was purchased and run to the dash area. A new connector was needed at the engine end. The gauges were purchased as a pre-wired surplus set. The gauges were removed from the panel that they were in while carefully noting wire locations and colors. 

The ground side of the gauge and of the light for each was also marked with a black dot. On the Faria gauges that I have, the stamped connection symbols are very hard to read and are partially covered by the mounting brackets and wires. The black dot provides for a final visual check before powering everything up.  

On the right side of the dash you can see the switches . They are top to bottom, blower, bilge pump, lights and ignition. Switches are all brass push pull type.

The circuit breakers are mounted on a piece of 1.5" aluminum angle on the back side of the dash. They are accessible by reaching under the dash and pushing the button to reset.

Breakers are 20A main, 5A for lights, 6A each for bilge pump and blower.

As you can see everything was neatly tie wrapped in place. This eases lamp replacement, and minimizes wire breakage from vibration or snagging.

There are 2 connectors. One is the "standard" 8 pin used on the engine harness and it provides the connections for the engine gauges and ignition. The second connector is an AMP Mate-n-Lock for all of the other circuits. The mate-n-Lock is an industrial electrical connector and I used selective gold plated pins. The pins are gold plated on the contact areas for corrosion resistance. The pins are crimp on type and I used an AMP Certicrimp ratcheting crimper (borrowed from work , they are expensive). When crimped in this manner with the correct set of dies , the connections are gas tight and secure. If you use an ordinary hand crimper , then I strongly recommend soldering as well (use rosin core solder). 

Similar connectors are used (2 pin) for the blower and bilge pump near each of them.

A Perko light is used on the bow. This is a combination red/green unit with built in flag socket. Light looks nice, but the flag socket is useless when moving, and the lamp holder springs are too weak. I had to tie wrap the spring clips and light in to get it to stay on steadily.

A removable all around pole lamp is used in the stern. The socket is mounted permanently. The pole lamp fits into clips I have mounted on the top of the driver's side stringer alongside of the engine. This stows it out of the way when not in use, and it is protected a bit by the battery form being knocked by skis and ladder.

The blower is a 3-4" unit mounted on the inside of one of the side battens. It is well above any standing water. It vents outside via a Perko clamshell vent. Inside, ordinary dryer vent hose is used. The intake is run under one of the stingers to the low point of the bilge. The idea is to pull the gas fumes out which are heavier than air. A higher intake will not get them all. 

The brown connector is a Mate-n-Lock to make it easily removed for service.

the hose in the foreground is the bilge pump outlet.

The bilge pump is mounted under the engine. It needs to be moved forward to a lower spot and possibly supplemented with a second one in the stern. The reason for this ,is it is not possible to find a spot that holds water both still and in motion. With a ski boat, we do drag a lot of water in with us.

The fuel fill is grounded to the electrical system to minimize static discharge and the following "big boom".

Mounted on top of the gas tank. It is connected to the gas gauge  (center) and the outer ring is grounded. Brass nuts and jam nut are used to secure the connections.

The horn is flush mounted under the fore deck between the light and the cleat. It is covered by a Perko cowling as was used for the blower vent opening.

This is not the recommended mounting position as the horn could fill with water. I covered the inside of the opening with screen to keep out large objects and drilled a 1/8" hole in the lowest point of the flare for drainage.

The horn button is mounted on the dash between and below the tach and speedometer. It is not in any of the pictures yet.

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