Category: 3D Printing

Meat Grinder Tune-up

I have been wanting to get into making fermented sausages such as Sopressata, Pepperoni, Salami and more. My sausage making has been rather limited as Teal is not a big fan of “tubular food” and each time I made sausage (summer, brats, Italians, etc.) it in the past it was painfully slow , so the gear would get set aside for another year or 2. I have both the meat grinder attachment for the Kitchenaid and a Kitchener #10 hand crank grinder. Both are slow to use.

Recently, I was making Sopressata with help from my grandson. However grinding in the hand crank grinder was too much for him this time. However he is a fan of the sausage samples we fried up and commercially made Soppressata.

Even for me it was difficult with the grinder constantly slipping on the counter and the blade and disc/plate getting gunked up. After grinding, I gave up on the hand grinder for stuffing and used the Kitchenaid (slow going). Stewing on this for few days, I was thinking whether I had to get a new grinder and stuffer or does the existing gear just need a tune up? The clue I needed was one of the grinder vendors recommending to send the blades in to them for periodic sharpening. I thought, this would be simple to do myself and then the light bulb came on: I had not done anything with either of the meat grinders! Basically, I was just using them “out of the box”. It appears that this is the primary problem!

I tune up and sharpen all of my knives and hand tools (chisels, planes, jointer, planer, etc). on a regular basis.When I get a new (or new to me- used) plane or chisel I spend the time to flatten and tune up the new tool. On closer examination of the Kitchener meat grinder there is a list of problems:

  • The discs / plates are not flat. Actually both are concave on both sides (how this would happen I do not know). They are not worn by any means, just poorly manufactured. You can see the coarse factory grind marks and no real sign of wear from use.
  • The knife is far from sharp
  • The plastic spacer they provide to go between the feet and the counter is some sort of polyethylene – slippery. We need something that will grab.
  • The feet are far from flat and have a very limited contact patch near the inner corners. This can be seen in the photos with the 2 small wear areas.
  • On the plus side the rear plastic bearing has a reasonable fit and enough thickness to push the blade against the plate.

The first step was flattening of the plates. You can use diamond stones 180 grit and then 300 or silicon carbide (wet or dry) sandpaper on the countertop (or glass plate or table saw or jointer) as shown below. Just wet the sandpaper on both sides and it will stick sufficiently for the flattening. If doing this on the counter, stay away from the front edge which may have some dish to it. It may take 20-30 min to do the initial flattening if they are poorly made (as mine were). However, subsequent sharpenings take but a few minutes.

If you have a hard time seeing the scratch pattern, cover the face of the disk with ink from a Sharpie.
After a few strokes on the sandpaper, you can see the high spots. Note both are concave. Worse yet, they were unevenly concave on BOTH sides with a poor / coarse grinding pattern.
This shows the grinding / honing of the disks on the sandpaper. You may want to try both sides to see which is “flatter” to save some work. You only need one side dead flat.
Getting better
Finished at 320 grit.

With the plates flattened, now it is time to sharpen the blade. For this you need something that can reach all the way into the corners. The diamond plates work well or you can use inexpensive small diamond sharpeners (often sold for sharpening fishing lures) . Aggressively sharpen the bevels, then do the flats the same way as the discs. It now actually feels sharp. So now this is getting promising.

Next was to address why does the grinder slip so badly on the counter? I threw out the stupid polyethylene spacer (which is slippery) that came with the grinder and used a rubber pad of the type for opening stuck jar lids, but this still did not help a lot. Looking more closely I noticed that there are 2 very small wear / contact points on the feet. They are FAR from level.

Note the dull patches on the feet. This is the only area in contact with the counter.

The feet need flattening. Given that this is cast iron, a file will do. Use a 10 or 12″ mill bastard file and carefully file the 2 feet flat. You must make nice parallel strokes or you can easily end up rounding the feet rather than flattening. Check that they are flat with a straight edge such as the blade of a square.

Feet after filing. Note the much larger contact area. More would be nice, but may not be necessary.

When researching other grinders, I saw the LEM #10 had a plastic/ rubber boot over the feet. This makes a lot of sense. So I drew up the foot and clamp pads in Sketchup and then 3D printed them in TPU (Thermoplastic Urethane) which is a flexible filament. I am using EOLAS brand TPU+, one of the softer ones for the foot and clamp pad, which they also claim is food safe (also great for gaskets).

With these changes in place, the grinder works far, far better. It grinds much more easily, does not clog as often, and no longer slides on the edge of the counter at all. I am still thinking about a proper sausage stuffer however.

The sketchup and STL files for the pads and a stuffing spider are at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4695351

Ring Roller Dies for forming a curved V shape

For the Path Light project I needed to make curved corner pieces for the roof. The roof panels are roughly triangular and the corners have a roughly 1/4×1/4 angle of “12 oz” copper to cover the corner. The twist is that the roof panels are not straight but instead somewhat concave giving the roof a flare at the bottom. The corner pieces cannot be bent to shape by hand, hammering to flare them takes forever, and using a chisel as a punch to stretch the edges is both slow and prone to cutting through. So a variation on a ring roller is needed. I have a Harbor Freight Ring Roller . It is not exactly a precision instrument but will suffice for this work and save a lot of time vs. building the mechanicals to hold and turn the dies from scratch.

Ring Roller mounted to some wood blocking so it can be secured in a bench vise.

I had run across a youtube video by “Stuff Made Here” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuY2-OrT9ig where he used 3D printed dies to bend some steel parts. Forming the copper strips would require far less stress, so I decided to give it a go. The first goal was to prove that the pieces could be formed as I desired, second would be to improve durability if needed . That could be solved by changing plastics or turning the wheels out of metal on the lathe. The first step was to pull the C-Clips that hold on the factory rollers and get some measurements .

Factory roller pulled and v-rollers fitted

Next the v-roller were designed in Sketchup and 3D printed. They were done in PLA at 50% infill with 3D honeycomb for the infill pattern. No support material was used even with the 45degree overhang (yes there are imperfections at the seam between layers because of this). It did take a few tries to get rollers sized such that they gave the relatively shallow curve that is needed and not split the V in the copper strips when inserted. If I had “properly” 3D modeled everything I could have probable avoided printing a few rejects.

V rollers – Note these had already been used to bend over 30 strips. Minimal wear, mostly from the edges of the strips which had serrations form the snips.

The V-rollers as printed did need a bit of clean up on the inner diameter and the keyway. The adjustable reamer did well for the bore. Yes, I know that you machinist purists will say this is will throw the bore off but I do not have spiral chucking reamers. If my printer had been better dialed in I might not have had as much clean up, but this is close enough. If you don’t have an adjustable reamer sandpaper and a dowel works too. You don’t want too tight a fit as the rollers do interfere with each other and all 3 have to be put on or removed all at once. You can see some faint faceting of the circumference in the wheels and the copper, due to the way Sketchup does circles, but once the part is finished they are completely invisible.

Roller in action bending the v-pieces for the corners of the roof of the lights.

For short run parts such as these the 3D printed parts provide a relatively quick and low cost / effort option to forming the parts. A nice thing was that I could design, kick off the printer and then go back to designing and building the rest of the light components while the part was printing. Also without the right tooling (broaches, which I do not have ) making keyways in aluminum or steel on the lathe is a bit of a pain. The files for the dies can be found on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4678087

Bending the corners in the press brake

Running the bent angle pieces through the ring roller

I hope this gives you some food for thought on making 3d printed plastic metal forming tools.

D-Bot – 3D printer upgrades

About 2 years ago I built the D-Bot  which is a core-xy style 3d printer. What this means is I have a printer with a relatively large build volume of roughly 300mm^3 and a fairly rigid mechanical structure.  My efforts on this design can be seen starting at: http://bronkalla.com/blog/2017/03/12/new-3d-printer-project/

To the basic printer design, I made a number of modifications (of course). Te major changes included a high performance extruder – Micron EME Cobra all metal extruder with thermocouple sensor as well as a 24v power supply to hit the high temperatures I needed for printing Nylon and other high temp plastics.

The printer control is based on the open source Marlin software (which is incredible)  and  Rumba controller board.  The Marlin software is highly configurable and supports many dozens of printer configurations, controller boards and commercial printer. However, this configurability comes at a cost (learning curve) for the infrequent user.

This configuration (D-Bot) also  did not come without aggravations. The dual z stepper drivers for the vertical motion, are prone to getting out of sync when powered down (one side lower than the other). This was aided by the habit of the cats walking across the printer when I was not around, as well as the default power down of the stepper drivers between prints. So for every print session, I would need to re-level the printer bed across the X axis (left to right as you face it) a few times. In addition, the original microswitch based home sensor was not that accurate.  So after levelling, I would need pfutz with the zero position to get the first layer of the print to come out at the right thickness.  The microswitch was replaced with an optical sensor last year, but it was still on only one side.

This worked for 2 years and then I said no more, there has to be some upgrades I can do to make this easier, more repeatable and reliable.  That turned into a part time project over the winter and now is working very nicely. Upgrades included:

  1. Printing igus iGlidur 180 Y carriage slider bearings to replace the v-roller wheels.   This lead to better print quality. The igus filament required printing at 250C so this was one of the uses of the high temperature print head (in addition to nylon). The X axis will need to wait, as a future project.
  2. Moving from  Marlin 1.0.9 to 1.1.9 (latest and reportedly final version) of the software that drives the printer.  This meant carefully handling all of the changes to the software, recompiling and uploading the software multiple times to get the printer back in working order with no other (physical) changes.
  3.  Adding a second Z-axis (vertical) home sensor so that each of the Z stepper drivers would have their own independent home sensor and after homing the printer the bed would be basically level.  This required some adjustment of the parts in Sketchup (not easy with STL models) and then some Marlin configuration changes to make it work.   The homing of the printer is now SO much better. Not just the dual z sensors, but the Marlin homing logic is much better and doing it properly (back off and fast seek in and then back off again with slow in to get final zero).
  4. Adding a BL-Touch for automatic bed leveling sensing.  The mounting bracket for the BL-touch was based on using the new bottom Y carriage bracket for the igus slider bearings.  Getting the BL-Touch to work was the most infuriating  part of the project. The documentation of the theory of operation of the BL Touch is spotty and this is coupled with contradicting info for configuring it in Marlin on the web as well as scant info on doing it with my 3d printer controller board.   So yesterday’s snow  storm gave me the quiet break to sit down and systematically dig into how to do this. In the end, it worked (and I ended up with a spare BL-Touch).

So now I have a radically improved 3D printer and it is ready for more projects.

Crib – Mattress frame

The mattress needs to be height adjustable. With this design there are 3 heights available. High, low and floor.

The frame is made of 3/4×3/4 ” 14 gauge steel tubing. It is sized to fit about 3/4″ inside of the wood frame.

The frame is supported at the corners, however the screw and nut locations would collide with the sides. So I used buried nuts welded into the end rail pieces prior to assembly. To do  this the holes are drilled (#7) and tapped (1/4-20 ) 3/4″ from each end. A sacrificial bolt is inserted and a nut is placed on it finger tight. The nuts are then welded in place. I used a MIG welder.  However the day was windy and my skills rusty after the long winter so they are not the prettiest of welds.  (so feel free to pick on my weld quality)

I have often used this technique for buried fasteners when bolting through relatively thin stock like this or for beds where the nut plates are buried in the wood legs.

The holes for the webbing were then drilled in the  sides. It is much easier to do this while the frame is still in pieces. I always make a list of the hole distances prior to marking and drilling. This is easy in a spreadsheet and minimizes the chances for an error half way through and the piece ending up looking like swiss cheese.  I will use #8 x1/2″ hex head self tapping sheet metal screws. The holes are 9/64″ or #28 drill.

The frame was then welded up, welds ground flush, flap disk sanded (120 grit) primed and painted.

The webbing is 2″ light polypropylene webbing. I ordered a 150 foot roll and used most of it.

The webbing ends are folded over and secured with the screw and washer. If you have restrung an old aluminum lawn chair, you know the drill.

When securing the second end the triangle tip should hang over the side by about 1/2″.  Now you start the screw through the webbing. Next you use a nut driver or impact driver and hex bit to lever the screw over after catching the tip in the hole. This adds just the right tension. Use hex head screws, I can’t imagine how frustrating this would be with just a straight screwdriver.  The long straps are tighter than the sides and installed first as I did not want to bow in the sides

The frame is hung from these small pieces. They make the hole spacing forgiving and provide access to the screws that are otherwise hidden mostly by the frame. 1/4″ long spacers are placed between the straps and frame. These were made on the 3D printer, although you could also pay the price at the hardware store.

Now ready for delivery. Gap around the mattress is one finger thickness – just about perfect.

3D Printing Nylon

One of my goals when building the printer was to be able to print nylon and other high temp materials.

For the trike, I wanted to print some parts for the chain idlers in nylon. So I ordered some Taulman Bridge nylon filament in Black.  This is supposed to be one of the easier nylon variants to print.  Going into this I knew that getting the nylon to stick to the build plate can be tricky and it absorbs moisture from the air which will cause printing problems.

The filament arrived, but it  was repackaged, not on the original Taulman spool and keeper as shown on the Taulman website or on Amazon. It was vac bagged with no silica gel which was suspicious. I started printing at 255C with 60c bed temp on hairspray. Lots of popping noises (like Rice Krispies) and peeled up like a potato chip on the 3rd layer.

Next, I tried Elmer’s wood worker’s glue. I had some left from past woodworking projects and it was getting thick. So I thought it was worth a try after seeing the PVA recommendation on the Taulman website. This sticks incredibly well!!! Actually hard to remove if you put the glue on too thick. Still lots of popping, puffs of steam and rough textured surface. increasing the temp to 265C helped only slightly. After the first night’s attempt I had placed it in a cat litter bucket with silica gel to try to dry t out. I had a few glossy areas (must have been down by the silica gel. So I had a clue I was on the right track despite a poor overall print.

You only need a very thin coat of glue. If it is too thick, it peels off with the part. I was easily doing 6 parts per coating.  Probably could do more if the location was not exactly the same each time.

The next day, I baked the spool at 220F on convect for 5 hours . This made a huge difference. Now printing nicely with a glossy finish and no popping. The spool look a bit potato chippish however. It warped due to the heat.
I am using a Hbot with Micron cobra extruder (all metal) and high flow 0.5mm nozzle. Printing @60mm/sec. I have not tried faster with the dry filament yet. Basically I am able to print at the same speed as PLA or ASA.

The parts are side plates for chain idlers for my recumbent racing trike project. They are 80mm in diameter. On the left is the “wet” version, right was made after drying the filament in the oven .

Drying the filament made a huge improvement in the print quality. Without the drying I would have rated this filament a failure.

During testing of the idler concept the strength and durability of the nylon became evident. The chain was not restrained and kept bouncing off the idler gear, deforming the nylon flanges. The same tests with PLA shattered.

Next for the printer will be new bearings for the print head carriage. A spool of iglidur180 has arrived. I will be moving from the bearing wheels to low friction fixed sliders

I also need to leave a note on the printer as to which filament was left in the head at the end of a session.  I have taken to cutting the filament off at the the top of the print head and letting it cool. This avoids the jams I had been having by pulling the filament out and leaving globs of filament in the feed tube. However the range of temps I am printing with is now quite large (nylon @ 255C down to PLA at 170C). So tonight I was tring to feed in the PLA for some frame tube end caps and had to remember to crank up the temp to clean out the nylon and purge, lowering the temp as the nylon was all fed out.

Recumbent trike – idlers and longer ride

The trike is now mostly done, but the drive train was giving me grief. The idlers were not working out and I replace the rear cassette due to skipping.  The previous owner of the components had beat the bike more than I initially thought with damage to the cassette and outer crank chain ring , both of which had to be replaced.  Maybe there was a good reason he cracked his Trek carbon fiber frame?

After having problems with:

  • Metal pulleys as idlers . These were garden tractor style A size v-belt pulleys form Northern Tools. There were metal shavings everywhere and the chain would pop off.
  • Hybrid pulleys. I used sprockets from the old gear cluster and 3D printed nylon sides and spacer to center them over the ball bearings. They held together, but after 5 miles were wobbling badly and the low gears were skipping. The chain would rock off the sprockets, ride on the sides or pop off all together. The nylon withstood a huge amount of force and merely deformed without breaking. However with a 9/32″ wide bearing, there was too much lateral force.
  • Hybrid pulleys versions 2&3. I used PLA for the test models. However, it blew apart under stress in less than 3 miles.  There were problems with geometry and the bearing to sprocket interface.   I was not thrilled with the thought of making new parts out of aluminum to withstand the stress and support 2 bearings per pulley. Nylon flexed too much and I would have needed to bake the spool again due to the humidity. to drive off the absorbed moisture prior to printing.

I then again turned to Google. This lead to Terra Cycle idler pulleys. http://t-cycle.com/idlers-chain-management-c-41/idlers-c-41_9/sport-power-idler-p-134.html They were highly recommended on the AZ website and elsewhere.   I ordered a couple of these and one of thier 28″ chain tubes as an upgrade from the garden hose.  With the research, I also decided to redo the chain tube supports and let the sprockets and chain tube slide freely on the shaft rather than being held side to side in a fixed location.   The resulting setup is seen below.  I used 1/16″ x 3/4″ aluminum stock and bent it to match the chain tube. This was easier to make and the integral chain retention is a huge benefit.

You can also see above, that when the old front idler shattered, the chain was then rubbing on the underside of the handlebars.

With these installed, I dressed for cycling (cycle shorts, not my regular cargo shorts) so as not to appear to be flashing the passersby. The padding of the cycling shorts was not necessary but the snug fit was.  I then did an intermediate length “shake down” ride. Just shy of 20 miles and nothing fell off or bound up. I still need to do some derailleur adjustment (some skipping under hard stress) and front brake fiddling (some squeaking/ rubbing of he disks) and front wheel toe-in adjustment as well as tying down the right front brake cable which is rubbing my calf.

However, it rode very well overall. It was comfortable and fun. There were plenty of interested looks on the bike trail, as you might expect.  Max speed was 26 MPH and average was 12.  Still below my road bike, but I hope with a bit more tuning and remembering to top off the tires, I should break even.  My back, wrists and hands felt much better than on the road bike. Conversely, my shoulders and biceps were a bit stretched as my hands are below and behind my back due to the reach for the handlebars. Legs were pretty good, but my shins are a bit sore tonight.  I expect that there will be some “human break in” for the new riding position.

 

3D printer Improvements – Bed leveling and Thermocouple Amp

3 point bed leveling was needed. I really should have done this from the beginning. 4 point is way too hard to do and results in warped plates. 3 point gives nice control and no warping problems. The right side of the heated bed has the single screw.

I now have it set up with 3 “glass cutting board” build plates. One is plain glass for PLA, a second has blue painters tape for PETG, a third has a layer of PEI attached for other filament types.  The cheap glass cutting boards are working out great for build plates:  Premium Tempered Glass Cutting Board Bundle 4 Pack – 11.75″ x 15.75″
by Clever Chef Link: http://a.co/goO8N7c

Next I tackled switching over to the thermocouple temperature sensor for the print head. The amplifiers finally came from China.

The thermocouples have a major advantage over thermistors for high temperature sensing as they can go to much higher temperatures. These will be needed for printing Nylon, Polycarbonate and other materials. The amplifier is very simple see: http://reprap.org/wiki/ExtThermoCouple_1.0

What is not mentioned anywhere is that when you configure for the thermocouple amp for the Rumba board you must connect it to a different input pin! I had to dig through the .h header files and then the schematic to finally figure this out. Otherwise the system was saying hte temp was 398 degrees C at ambient air temp due to the open circuit. In the photo below, the lonely yellow wire is the output from the thermocouple amp. 

All of the other temperature inputs are on the left edge of the board, neatly arranged.

After I had it connected and reading the correct ambient temp, about 22C, it was time to run some tests to tune the heater control circuit. The heater control is done by a PID control loop. Most of my control loop theory and Laplace transforms are long forgotten. So I decided to use the PD auto tuning of the Marlin firmware.  There were a few initial runs, but now I need to get serious. Here is one of the first attempts at running with the thermocouple. The output is very noisy and the temperature control oscillates will not settle down

The results when running the auto calibration were not great. Part of the problem was excessive noise on the temperature sensor lines. I had to move the amplifier up near the print head to make it be usable. There is still more noise on the temperature feedback than I would like, but it is running with reasonable stability.  I ended up using the recommendation for the PID settings form Micron EME that makes the print head I am using.  Here is a print head heat plot made while printing a cover for the enclosure for the Rumba controller board that I am using.

I am now printing PETG with some reliability, but I still have some problems with the filament stripping and jamming at the drive gear. One other problem was the PETG filament had absorbed moisture over the last month, leading to lots of tiny bubbles in the extrusion. I “baked” the  filament for 24 hours at 100 degrees (bread proof setting on my oven) and this cured most of the bubbles by driving off the moisture. The filament will now be stored in a plastic box with silica gel to absorb the moisture.

Here is a shot of the top cover of the Rumba board case being printed.  Teal says the printer sounds like an old school video game while doing the fan openings.

 

Additional links:

http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA

3D Printing parts for the Printer
At this point the printer isl making more parts for itself. Teal (my wife) compared it to Frankenstein adding his own parts after he had an arm attached.

One of the first part sets was to make a case and mount for the display. The case turned out quite well, but the design of the bracket to mount it to the frame was unusable. So I will be searching for another or designing one myself.

The advantages of being able to walk away and let the printer just run and return to a safe state are huge. With the print head on the CNC router, I had to keep checking on the progress and shut it down at the end as the software could not control the print head heater . Now not only is it running and shutting down properly I get messages on my phone confirming the status. With Repetier host https://www.repetier.com/, you can add an app to your phone, Repetier Informer, and get notifications of start, stop, faults and progress (among others). So today as I was again multitasking,getting the spring gardening done and wandering about the yard, I was getting notifications so I could check up on the printing status while finishing the placement of 20 yards of wood chips and propagating many perennials. This was to gain more flower beds with perennial plantings and reduce lawn area and Buckthorn thickets. I was doing my Earth Day yard work.

Today the printer was making cable chain. I am not sure if this a good trade-off of time vs cost. Cable chain is used to make a nice flexible assembly to hold your wires / cables for moving devices. For the CNC router  I bought the cable chain from an eBay supplier in China. For the 3D printer, the printer itself is making the cable chain links but I have to do the part clean-up and fitting. The printing is not yet tuned in well enough to avoid a lot of hand work on these parts.

Spool holder to hold the filament spool while printing.: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1959643/#files.  This replaces the ugly aluminum rod seen earlier in the photos and removes obstructions. This is a very nice and simple, functionally designed part. “Frankenstein printer” did well on making this appendage.

Cable chain. This supports the wires going to print head in a neater manner than the spiral wrap. I am using the part designs from: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:611593/#files . I wanted cable chain that would be open on top so I do not have to re-run the wires in the frame with the need to then disconnect re-connect everything for the print head. We will see how this turns out. The notches look like they will need some fiting for the snake shaped cable retainers (cable ties bay do instead). Cable chain parts are slow to print . A set of 16 links takes about 5 hours. Then there is some tedious hand work to clean up the parts and make them fit together well. I think 2 sets of 16 links, plus the end parts should suffice for the print head cable chain. Here is the first set of links fitted together, roughly straight and as a U.

3D Printer is Running!

The printer is now running It is roughly assembled (as you can see) and now it is time for fine tuning and making parts for itself. I love it when a tool is at the state where it can help finish its own build or rebuild making parts. Cases for the boards, cable retainers, cable covers, cable chains, proper spool support are all on the short list.

There has been a bit of additional grey hair added getting here:

The Rambo control board will not connect at all via USB3. It must be a USB 2 connection . This is the case for both the Arduino downloads and Repetier control software. I did not pay attention when I originally programmed the board and then subsequently rearranged the USB ports…

Along the way the first Rambo board stopped communicating via USB. Many tries to get this going, re-download drivers, try to re-flash the USB chip but to no avail. I ended up returning the first one (still barely within the 30 day amazon return period) and got another. So far so good. I was able to get it programmed and it is running well so far.

As mentioned previously the thermocouple adapter wont work with the 12864 display. So I have jammed a thermistor on top of the heater block as I don’t want to pull out the thermocouple temporarily and risk damaging it and the thermistor is working OK for now. It is still off by about 15 degrees, too hot, and the temperature control overshoots. However the adapters are on their way.

The new nozzles form Micron finally came. It takes almost 4 weeks from Israel with normal shipping. I am currently using the high flow 0.5mm nozzle.

Fan for the print head heater must be directly connected to 12v. Not fan 0 or 1 . It needs to be always on. Not doing this lead to new and novel ways to jam the filament.

It pays to double check the tooth count on the gears. The first test cube was well undersized and over-extruded. The steps per mm settings are now corrected.

12v power supply was just not enough to get the print head up to temp. I needed to switch to 24v.

Still need to find a better way to adhere the cork to the bottom of the heated print bed.

The plain glass rectangular cutting boards form Amazon are working well as build plates. So far printing the PLA to the clean glass with no additives. Clean with denatured alcohol.  On the old setup I was getting to decent adhesion with blue tape wiped with lacquer thinner.

Some of the issues were self inflicted as I was time splitting between house / yard projects, this and several other things. At times I hit my multi-tasking limits.

So now I am adjusting settings and printing parts. First successful test cube is below.

Snot string was due to still having the print head too hot due to poor contact with the thermistor.

Finished test cube. Size is now dead on.  This was with 0.35mm layer height, 60mm/s internal speed 30mm/s perimeters.

Now starting printer parts. Here is the back of the case for the display being printed.

 

The Repetier control software is great. It is much better than truing to control the printer directly via the twisty-turny knob on the  display.  Overall, I am rally impressed with the open source software (Marlin and Repetier) of this project.

Completed back panel for the display: